PPF · Coating
PPF vs 9H ceramic coating: which does your car need?
Both protect your paint, but they solve different problems. The right choice depends on how and where you drive.
Paint Protection Film (PPF)
PPF is a clear, flexible urethane film applied panel by panel. Its job is physical protection: it absorbs stone chips, gravel, light scratches and road rash that would otherwise reach the paint. Quality films are self-healing, so fine swirls in the film disappear with warmth.
9H Ceramic, graphene and borophene coatings
A coating is a thin, hard layer that bonds to the clear coat. It won't stop a stone chip, but it gives a deep gloss, makes water and dirt slide off, and shields the paint from UV, bird droppings and Gurugram dust. Graphene coatings add extra slickness and fewer water spots, and borophene is the newest, toughest tier.
Which one should you choose?
- Lots of highway driving or a brand-new car: PPF, at least on the front end
- Mostly city driving and want easy washing: 9H ceramic, graphene or borophene coating
- Want the best of both: PPF, then a coating on top
- Superbikes: PPF on the tank and fairings, coating everywhere else
Not sure? Message us your car and how you use it, and we'll recommend what it actually needs.
Aftercare
Your first weeks after a 9H ceramic coating
A 9H ceramic, graphene or borophene coating keeps curing for a while after hand-over. Treat it gently at first and it will reward you for years.
The first 7 days
- Avoid washing the car, including touchless washes
- Park under cover when you can, away from trees and sprinklers
- Wipe off bird droppings quickly with a soft, damp microfibre
- If it gets wet, let it dry; don't rub water spots aggressively
After that
- Hand wash with a pH-neutral shampoo and the two-bucket method
- Skip automatic brush washes; they cause swirls
- Dry with a clean, plush microfibre towel
- Come in for a periodic inspection and top-up to keep the gloss at its best
Paint correction
Why paint correction comes before protection
Coatings and PPF are clear. Whatever is on the paint underneath, whether swirl marks, haze, holograms or light scratches, stays visible and gets locked in.
That's why our process always starts with a foam bath and decontamination (iron fallout remover and clay bar), followed by machine polishing to remove defects and bring back clarity. Only then do we apply the coating or film.
The result is protection over paint that looks as good as, or better than, the day the car left the showroom. Even new cars often arrive with light marks from transport and dealer washing, so we inspect every vehicle under studio lights first.
